Most winter roof damage starts with something that was visible from the ground in the fall: a gutter pulling away, a patch of lifted shingles, a branch hanging over the eaves, icicles forming in the same spot every year. The safest way to prepare a roof for winter is to look carefully from the ground, hand anything that needs a ladder or a roof walk to a qualified roofer, and have a plan for heavy snow and ice before it arrives. This page covers what to check, which warning signs mean "call someone now," what a professional should look at, how to keep access open in a storm, and what to do with the damaged material if repairs are needed.

House with snow on the roof and eaves

Step 1: Inspect From a Safe Location

Do this from the ground, ideally on a clear day in the fall and again after any major storm. Use binoculars or a phone camera zoom for detail. Don't climb onto the roof; the inspection is a roofer's job if anything looks wrong.

  • Roof surface: missing, lifted, curled or cracked shingles; bare spots; moss; dark streaks; anything sagging along the ridge or between rafters.
  • Flashing: around chimneys, vents, skylights and where the roof meets a wall; look for gaps, lifting or rust.
  • Gutters and downspouts: leaves and debris, sections pulling away, downspouts that end next to the foundation.
  • Trees: branches over the roof, the driveway, or the service line to the house.
  • Inside: check the attic, if it's accessible and safe to enter, for daylight through the roof boards, water stains, damp insulation or frost on the underside of the roof deck. On ceilings below, look for new stains.
  • Last winter: where did icicles form, and where did ice build up along the eaves? Those spots usually repeat.

Step 2: Identify Snow and Ice Concerns

Three winter conditions do most of the damage:

  • Ice dams: ridges of ice along the eaves that hold back meltwater, which can then back up under shingles and leak into walls and ceilings. They usually point to heat escaping from the house into the attic, which melts snow higher on the roof.
  • Heavy or uneven snow loads: deep drifts, snow sliding from an upper roof onto a lower one, or rain falling on existing snow. FEMA's Snow Load Safety Guide notes that snow accumulating at different depths creates concentrated loads that can overload a roof, and that rain on snow can saturate it and significantly increase the load.
  • Blocked vents and exhausts: snow and ice covering furnace, water heater or dryer vents can force exhaust gases, including carbon monoxide, back into the house.

Stop and get help immediately if you notice any of the overstress warning signs FEMA lists: sagging ceilings or roof lines, popping, cracking or creaking sounds, doors or windows that suddenly won't open or close, new cracks in walls, or severe leaks. FEMA's guidance is to evacuate and have a local building authority or a qualified design professional inspect the structure (FEMA P-957, Snow Load Safety Guide; US federal; January 2013, accessed October 2026). Canadian readers should follow their provincial and municipal guidance; US federal guidance doesn't set Canadian rules.

Step 3: Arrange a Qualified Roof Assessment

If Step 1 or 2 turned up anything, book a licensed, insured roofer before the snow arrives. A useful assessment should give you:

  • A written description of each problem and its cause, with photos from the roof.
  • A recommendation: repair now, monitor, or plan a replacement.
  • Whether the work needs a permit in your municipality.
  • A written quote you can compare against at least one other.

FEMA's guide also cautions that, more often than not, trying to remove snow from a roof is more hazardous than beneficial. If snow removal is needed, that's a job for a contractor with fall protection, not a homeowner on a ladder.

If the roofer recommends repair or replacement, the next task is to plan roof repair or replacement: comparing quotes, scheduling around the weather, and arranging debris removal.

Step 4: Review Drainage and Insulation Professionally

Ice dams and attic frost are often symptoms of problems the roof itself can't fix:

  • Attic insulation and air sealing: warm air leaking from living spaces into the attic is a common cause of ice dams. An energy auditor or insulation contractor can find the leaks and check insulation depth.
  • Attic ventilation: a roofer can check whether soffit and ridge vents are clear and balanced.
  • Gutters and downspouts: clear them after the leaves fall, repair loose sections, and extend downspouts away from the foundation. Gutter repair or replacement has its own guide.
  • Heat cables: if you're considering heating cables along the eaves, have them installed by a qualified installer and follow the manufacturer's instructions; they treat the symptom, not the cause, and need a properly rated electrical supply.

Step 5: Plan Emergency Access

Before the first big storm, decide what you'll do if heavy snow or ice arrives:

  • Save contact details for a roofer and a snow-removal contractor who works on roofs, since both are hard to book mid-storm.
  • Keep the furnace, water heater and dryer vents clear of snow, and make sure carbon monoxide alarms are working.
  • Know where the attic access is and keep a path to it clear, so a contractor can check from inside.
  • Keep the driveway and a route to the house clear for a contractor's truck.
  • Stay out from under eaves where snow or ice could slide off, and keep children and pets away from those areas.

Step 6: Route Damaged Materials Appropriately

If repairs go ahead, plan for the debris before work starts:

  • Shingles and underlayment are heavy. Ask the roofer whether disposal is included in the quote. If it isn't, a roofing dumpster rental sized for the weight, not just the volume, is the usual route; tell the operator it's shingles so they can recommend the right bin.
  • Metal flashing and gutters can usually go to scrap metal recycling.
  • Branches and storm debris go to yard waste collection or green waste drop-off where available.
  • Wet insulation or drywall from a leak should be removed and documented as part of a water-damage cleanup, with photos for your insurer.
  • Older roofing materials: some older roofing products may contain asbestos; if you're unsure about the age or type, ask the roofer before removal.

Bin There Dump That logo
Start typing your delivery address: